Skin needling, also known as Facial Mesotherapy and Collagen Induction Therapy (CIT), involves using a handheld roller infused with multiple, fine-pointed needles on the skin’s surface. This handheld roller contains needles that are 1-3mm long and the pinpoint punctures created on the epidermis penetrate the very topmost layer of the dermis. This action activates the skin’s natural wound healing process by releasing fibroblasts and growth factors that create collagen and elastin. Skin needling was created by a South African plastic surgeon in 1997, who discovered that this procedure is a harmless and less invasive method of inducing the skin to create collagen and elastin. Since it’s discovery, skin needling has been used for treating sensitive areas that other skin resurfacing procedures may need to avoid, such as scars, vertical lines around the mouth, below the eyes, the neck, backs of hands and thighs.
Skin needling has been found to give the same results as other resurfacing treatments, such as laser, chemical peeling and dermabrasion, but is considered less invasive than these three because the epidermis is left intact. Skin needling is also less likely to cause permanent damage, such as sun sensitivity, skin color loss or hyperpigmentation.
A dermatologist performs skin needling and most patients require one session to achieve desired results. First, a local anesthetic cream is applied on the areas of treatment, then cleansed off and a layer of sodium chloride is applied. The dermatologist holds the skin taught and, with minimal pressure, passes the roller in short, back and forth motions (approximately 6-10 times front and back). The doctor watches for pinpoint bleeding, and once pinpoint bleeding is noticed, the area is cleaned with moist gauze and the doctor repeats the back and forth process. This process occurs three times – after the third time, the skin is again cleaned with moist gauze and the doctor applies a layer of petroleum jelly. The doctor may also choose to use a vitamin A gel, which aids in cell turnover. This layer of topical is left on overnight, and the next morning, the patient can shower but is advised to avoid using cleansers or products for 36 hours post treatment. Most patients are able to return to work and normal activities approximately 48 hours after treatment. Makeup or SPF can be applied 2 post treatment days, as long as skin is dry and unbroken. After 5 days, the skin is a moderate pink color that can be covered with makeup.
Skin needling can be performed on all skin types and colors, including sensitive skin. Results include thicker, tighter and smoother skin, increased blood flow to areas of poor healing, minimized appearance of scars (including acne) and fine lines and increased penetration of serums and moisturizers. Other results can include minimized stretch marks and hair loss. Skin needling can be repeated every 6-8 weeks as long as the epidermis is healed; however, collagen formation can continue for up to 12 months after one treatment. Per the direction of the dermatologist, patients can also incorporate the use of hydroquinone, copper peptides or tretinoin (the acid form of vitamin A) to aid the resurfacing process. The disadvantages of skin needling may include scarring due to over-aggressive needling and potential blood aerosol exposure, which may require the patient to return for a second or third session.
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